Milan - Beyond Fashion houses

Fashion and I are at a little distance on the scale of the latest trends. I have my style, simple and a little elegant (I think), and not influenced by the latest trends. Hence many fashion brands were just names and high-priced goods chains for me until my recent visit to Milan, Italy. Milan is one of the fashion capitals influenced by Italian and French styles. I had anticipated the outlook of a fashion city before arrival. However, I was stunned by the plethora of brands for clothing, bags, shoes, watches, and everything under the sun. Beyond the known brands were numerous small designer stores with unique offerings. Unlike the standard colours (Black, Blue, Red) we see here in the UK, Italians have a flare for all the colours one could imagine. Their dressing style is high-standard and chic yet effortless.

Fashion here is not only about following the latest trends but also about appreciating the craft. All the efforts, dedication, and innovation put into each item to get it into the hands of the owner are valued more. The fashion history is long and ripe with the craftsmanship, quality, and distinct style of Italian brands like Gucci, Fendi, Prada, etc., that are generations old. I learned that beyond the materialistic world, many still value quality and are ready to pay a high price for it. More than locals, I could see many well-heeled Asians in these stores splurging on the new mint. Yet beyond these brands, there were small stores equally valuable for small customers like me.

Beyond the tinsel fashion world, I liked historic Milan. The Milan Cathedral(Duomo) is the heart of the city. Built over six centuries, it has tall spires of 108 meters that seem to touch the foggy sky. The view from the top is panoramic, with artistic spires and city views. The Castello Sforzesco, Milan's castle, a short tram ride from here, built in the 13th century, is huge with old offices and museums and worth a visit. Near to the castle is Santa Maria Delle Grazie cathedral, famous for Leonardo's painting 'The Last Supper' in the refractory. Unfortunately, I missed this due holiday closure. It is one of the most widely circulated and talked about the painting by the legend. However, unlike his other notable paintings, this was done with oil paints on the wall, a temporary method unlike frescos, and hence deteriorated very quickly. The refractory faced damage during the world war, but the painting went unharmed. It took several restorations to secure this painting. And hence visitors get only fifteen minutes to marvel at the art to limit further damage. I hope someday I get to see it in person.

I was fortunate to visit the Biblioteca Ambrosiana, tucked behind the hustle and bustle of the shopping streets. This historic library holds treasures from the past, notable paintings, artifacts, and books. I was here to see one of the most treasured books in history, 'Codex Atlanticus, the original volumes of Leonardo's notes and drawings ranging from geometry, mechanics, aerodynamics, physics, arts, and philosophy. It is the oldest written and available work spanning the entire career of the genius. There are close to a thousand pages handed over to his disciple and passed down generations to various owners. Even Napoleon was so interested that he took it to France when Florence was under the French rule. The book returned to Ambrosia, its original place, for permanent public display. Later in 2009, the restoration of the pages was undertaken. Digital copies were created to preserve and make them available for wide use.

Only 20-25 pages on a given theme are displayed for 2-3 months in the library to limit environmental damage. The name Atlanticus comes from the large atlases pages used to preserve the original notes. These pages were bounded in 12 volumes and covered in a cage-style case to protect them when taken to France during Napoleon's siege. I could see a few of the pages and marvel at the knowledge, wisdom, and art of the legend centuries ago. The drawings and equations reminded me of my engineering days, but sadly we were never taught about Codex.

The other significant artwork was a full-scale preparatory cartoon(rough drawing) of the 'School of Athens' by the famous artists Raphael. I had seen the original fresco in the Vatican museums and was intrigued to see the drawing. This drawing is the largest surviving of any pre-work done using charcoal on paper in the 15th century for a fresco during the Renaissance period. It took four years of recent restoration to get it to where it is today. Each area of the drawings is documented in multiple books for in-depth study for those interested in the library.

Beyond fashion, history, and arts, there is another side to Milan where streets look deserted, shops and cafes are closed due to the pandemic, and low economic activity. The rise of migrants and the falling Italian population is visible everywhere. The social and economic divide between rich and poor is widening. However, it is still better than the southern cities owing to the fashion and aligned industries. I left the city enriched with knowledge of craftsmanship and appreciation for the efforts behind the scenes instead of the mad trends that have blinded the materialistic world.