Alluring Santorini

Santorini exactly matches its postcard image that is famous over the internet. The deep blue Aegean Sea surrounds this Greek island like a blanket. I found it calm, bright, and sunny in late April afternoon. It has a big city vibe in a more touristy place and a very serene old village vibe at other making it alluring. The island, officially called Thira, is one of the many in the Cyclades (cyclic islands) and boosts a local culture. The mountain cliffs facing the sea and the black, red, and white beaches give it a distinct feature. The terrain has changed over the millennia due to volcanic activities.

The most recent volcanic eruption in 1950 and earthquake in 1956 damaged the island. However, post-1980 tourism flourished, making it one of the most visited destinations in Greece. The island has around 17 villages, well connected via roads, although, in places, it's rocky. There are nearly twenty thousand citizens during winter. It climbs in summer when the Greeks return to their holiday homes and the large number of tourists taking it close to a half million. It even has an international airport bringing tourists from all over the world. Apart from tourism wine industry is very popular, followed by tomato, pistachio, and olives farming.

I found Santorini very similar to India in many aspects. The population is very laid back. There are no tall buildings but huge bungalows with backyards laden with fruit trees. Although, this scene changes on the cliff where the houses cram in narrow allies. Most are luxury hotels with infinity pools overlooking the beautiful caldera (the old volcanic crater). People pay high prices to secure a suit that has a sunset view. Ironically, these were the very places where once poor people lived. Later fishermen, sailors, and rich people took over, giving these areas a privileged status.

I stayed in an area close to the beach. To my surprise, it was cheaper than the Caldera area. The place had a typical village vibe to it. When I waited at a bus stop for twenty minutes to go to the city center - Fira, it was half an hour late. It was considered normal by locals around. The roads were barely distinguishable from the ground nearby. On the bus, the conductor only accepted cash. After a long time, I saw people counting their pennies. He shouted the names of the stops in his heavy Greek accent, which made many tourists miss the bus stops. Usage of English is the bare minimum here, so one has to be very attentive in the call-out. When I reached the city center called Fira, it was not a center but tucked away in an inner lane. There are old cobbled streets with no vehicular traffic.

One has to climb and descend lots of slippery steps over the cliff. You can hire a porter or a donkey to get yourself or the luggage from one place to another. I was surprised to see donkey rides very common in this part. Back in the day, the old port below was the only port connecting with mainland Greece and one had to travel over three hundred steps each way to take ferries. Hence donkeys were the preferred mode. Even today, the donkeys carry heavy loads, daily supplies, and even suitcases of tourists. They come from Cypress after qualifying very stringent criteria like height, body weight, and even smartness. The other common site is stray animals. There are thousands of stray cats and dogs on the entire island.

I took a day tour around the island, covering the popular tourist locations and the famous sunset. We visited the old ruins of Akrotiri, a pre-historic settlement buried under a volcanic eruption sometime 16th century BC. The excavation started in the late 1960s and thus revealed a lot about society through the artifacts and paintings back then. It seems it was a wealthy settlement of traders and fishermen as most houses were two to three stories and very well constructed. The old artifacts depict the excellent trade link with other parts of the world. I was very impressed by the guide, a ex-archeologists explaining things in great detail. I asked her about the whole excavation and preservation process but was sad to learn that due to limited funding, they can no longer maintain the site well and depend on the entrance fees given by the visitors. She was glad to know about my interest in excavations and my Indian origins. For the next ten minutes, I became the guide to a prospective tourist in India.

It was the first time I realized that I have to learn more about India as roles do reverse sometimes. My little knowledge about Yoga resorts in Rishikesh and the best time to visit Haridwar left us uncomfortable. In a good way, it helped to break my assumptions that I know my country well than outsiders. I realized that as India grows and opens its doors to the world, we have the responsibility to guide and help our guests in any small way possible.

Next, we visited the famous village of Oia (pronounced as Eeya), which is the poster card of Santorini. The white houses converted into hotels and luxury suits with infinity swimming pools, the blue dome churches, the caldera, and the vast deep blue sea are panoramic. Situated on the northwest of the island, you can view the entire island from here. On a clear day, one can even see the nearby islands. It's one of the most popular and costly places in the entire Greece islands. It has an old-world charm with modern-day luxuries. The sunset from here is pristine and brings in many tourists. Although in my view it's beautiful from any part of the world.

Nevertheless, like many others, I took the bet to find a perfect spot to see the setting sun in the sea from a cliff top. Unlike the photos we see on social media sites from the best location, it takes effort and a few hundred steps to watch it for free. However, if one is ready to splurge the money, then hotels, cruise ships, and small boat trips give the best ambiance and clear view of the sun. Never before I saw so many people cramped in small allies with cameras, mobiles, and even a drone, to capture this natural phenomenon. After an hour's search, I got a little space on the compound wall of a house to view the sunset among a few more in front of me. Unfortunately, the sun decided to shine the brightest that day before beginning the show. I must say the wait was worth it. Although short, it was a picture-perfect sunset. I still wonder how many saw through their eyes as we only saw mobiles in the air. Once the sun went away for another day, it was back to normal as if nothing happened.

Despite the challenges, I found the locals kind, helpful, and hard-working. Due to the failing economy and inefficient governance, they pay a high price. Every person I met knew very little English, but their kindness and warmth conveyed a lot. I left Santorini with teary eyes as I will miss the sunshine and the deep blue Aegean Sea, but more so the kindness of the locals. My airport drop-off shuttle didn't turn up on time, making me late for my flight. The very kind hotel receptionist saw my plight and immediately requested a staff member to drop me at the airport. I thanked her and others for the timely help from the bottom of my heart. When I reached the airport, I offered monetary help as a token of appreciation, but the kind gentlemen refused. Instead, he wished me well before leaving. I was very humbled by his gestures. It felt that humanity still prevails in many parts of the world.